New River Gorge
You are all too clever. Most of you at least. The majority of you figured the safety thing was what failed on my last New River Gorge climbing trip. I had my worst climbing fall on the first day of the trip and was out of commission for the rest.

Khanh, Agnes, and I left from my house late Thursday afternoon. Packing the car took a while. Somehow, with one less person than last trip, the car was more full. This time most of the back seat was filled and there was just enough room for Khanh to sleep back there. At this rate, if Agnes and I go on a trip by ourselves we will need to rent a van.

We camped instead of rented a cabin this time. Hopefully that explains the extra space we needed since we now had tents, sleeping pads, and sleeping bags (I just used a sheet at the cabin). After checking options online we ended up at the Chestnut Creek campground. It was nice enough, quiet. We set up Nicole's big tent in the car's headlights. It was a big tent, plenty of room for the three of us and I could even stand up in it.

Friday

We had a fairly early start. We were heading to Bubba City a few miles up the road. We stopped at the first pull off and made it to Bubba Buttress by about 10 AM. Our first climb was Duck in a Noose (5.8+). It was a fun warmup that started in a big chimney then followed a flake. The hardest part was near the last bolt and I had to backstep my way past it. Everyone took turns leading it. Agnes took a clean fall on it. I heard her grunt before the fall but didn't turn in time to see it. I had my camera ready in case she popped again but she didn't cooperate.

Our next target was the classic Daisy Cutter (5.7). The climb started in what they described as a chimney, but I'd describe as a tall, narrow cave. I planned to stick around at the top of the climb and took extra gear to anchor myself up there, as well as my camera and a snack. Loaded down, I started up. The first bolt was not tightened and the hanger spun freely. Khanh passed me the multitool from my bag and I tightened it. I kept the tool with me, which was good since almost every bolt was loose. The climb was a lot of fun, you end up riding the edge of the cave you started in. At the top there was nothing but some wimpy trees to anchor to. I was pretty comfortable though, and wasn't planning on moving around a lot, so I just hitched myself to one of the anchor bolts as a back up in case I slipped. Secured, Agnes pulled the rope so Khanh could re-lead it. She looked good on it and made a much more photographic ascent of the top flake than I did. I was tall enough to get on some of the holds past the flake fairly quickly, but Khanh, and later Agnes, needed to spend more time laying back on the flake and walking their feet up the wall. Agnes looked good on it too, though she had some awkward looking moves with her arm posted against the rocks behind her at some places. It was interesting to watch the climbing from above. Agnes locks on to the clips. You can see in this series of moves up the flake how her eyes are always fixed to her next clip.

Sufficiently warmed up, we headed to the Beer Wall area. St. Pauli Girl (5.10c) was marked as a classic and it looked like something I could get. This wall was directly in the hot sunlight so I decided to try sans shirt. A little sun on my back would be nice. The start had some hard moves and I slid down it before the first clip on my initial attempt. I got it on the next attempt and I think the second bolt was pretty straightforward. It got tricky around the fourth bolt. I was hot by then and sweat was dripping down my brow. Normally I'd wipe it with a shirt sleeve, but I had smartly shed that. I don't see the appeal of climbing shirtless on a hot day. The nice wicking athletic shirts keep my cooler and dry. After clipping the fourth bolt I poked around a bit trying to determine the easiest path to the 5th. I was at kind of a bulge, with a decent crack on the right side. Unfortunately, the good holds would take me the wrong direction, I needed to go left. I used them until high enough to set my left foor on a nice hold to the left of the bulge and shift my weight back in that direction. From there I just needed to work over a short roof to the finish. It is nice, when pulling over a roof, to have a really nice hold to haul yourself with. This climb didn't have those. The holds here weren't terrible, but it did make getting my center of gravity (in other words, my butt) up and over.

Perhaps scared off by how difficult I made it look, Khanh and Agnes both toproped the climb. I considered giving it a second go, but figured there were lots of climbs to try before I started repeating. There were some easy climbs in the vicinity, but we wanted to try some harder ones before we were too tired. The only other decently rated 5.10 in the area was at the end of Bimbo Buttress, the short Direct Aretection (5.10a). It was a little more of a hike than I expected from the guidebook and turned out to be on a really steeply sloped hill. The ground was angled such that just standing in one place was difficult and tiring; great for belaying.

The climb followed up an arete, and you were just supposed to layback the whole way up it. If you are going to try this climb, don't do it in the mid to late afternoon. The sun was blinding. Between that and the steep terrain I started the climb in a bad mindset. The holds were OK, but not great. The sun made it impossible to see where I needed to go and I started to get nervous. The first two clips weren't bad, but I was flailing from there. I could see a ledge that looked pretty good but was having trouble committing to the move. Because the ground sloped up the way I was climbing, I stayed more or less the same height above ground as I went, never really moving far out of ground fall potential. I was really distracted, my mind more focused on what would happen if I missed the ledge or couldn't get set enough from there to the next clip. After a few false starts and internal pep talks (it is within my range, the ledge should be sufficient to clip from) I went for it. I grabbed the ledge and don't even remember how good it was - I was determined it would be good enough. I made the clip and the next, then the somewhat awkward finish out onto the face to get to the anchors. I was glad to be done with the climb though I didn't enjoy it.

I probably psyched everyone else out. Khanh ended up bailing on the climb, but Agnes managed it. She even worked in a heel hook on the way to the anchors to show off. We hiked out of there ready to try some of the more fun, easy climbs.

On the way back the the easy Beer Wall climbs, we decided to stop at Learning Curve (5.8-). The Bubba City guide gave it two stars so we figured it was worth a climb. It looked interesting. The start was actually fairly stiff. It was slabby but the holds weren't great and it took some delicate maneuvering. The middle part was uneventful, but then I think I wandered off route a little. I ended up to the right of a tree. The anchors were slightly above its base and off to the left. I made my way over it but think it was probably not the proper climb. I had avoided the face below the anchors since it looked harder than a 5.8-. I adjusted the rope so the tree didn't interfere and Khanh and Agnes toproped the climb. I think both did manage to go up the harder face section.

Tracing our way back out, we were back at the Beer Wall. There were three easy climbs we figured we would pick off, a 5.5, 5.6, and 5.7. I decided to start with the hardest and most highly rated of the three, Gilded Otter (5.7). It started with a layback but was nowhere as strenuos as the last layback climb. There was a bulge at about the third clip, the crux for the climb. It wasn't too rough, retty enjoyable really. The 4th bolt was right before a little ledge. I clipped it and stood on top of the ledge to see where to go next. There was one bolt before the anchors, up and left of where I was. I climbed a really nice set of holds up a crack or a flake (I forget exactly) to a solid clipping stance for the 5th bolt. Once I was set, I decided it was still a bit of a reach to the clip so I adjusted a little. And I popped off. I don't even recall how it happened - if a hand or foot had been the one to give. I had a lot of time to think on the way down. It was an odd feeling to realize I was no longer holding anything. I recall noises from Khanh and Agnes below, but have no idea what they were. I remembered the ledge that had been big enough to stand on that I would probably hit soon. I think I was turning by that point because I remember trying to get a sense of which direction the ledge was and which way I should turn. When I hit it I remember having enough time to try and stay on it but I couldn't figure out which way to roll. I felt my body continuing downward. I had been 8 to 10 feet above the last clip and all of that rope was falling with me. I tangled in it as I turned after hitting the ledge. It wrapped my right leg and I felt myself going upside down. Well, I still didn't know which way was which, but I knew I was rotating. I was glad I had my helmet on and kept wondering if it would be smacking into anything. I wanted to turn away from hitting anything but didn't know which way that was. For all I know I would whip my face into something. Would it be better to hit my chest or back? Eventually the rope went taught and I halted somewhere around the second clip. I didn't take the time to note this, Agnes mentioned it later. She said was watching me wondering if I would ever stop (she was belaying). Given that I fell from 3 clips above, with each normally around 10 feet apart (sometimes closer), I figure the whole fall was in the 20 to 30 foot range. It couldn't have taken long, but I had all of these thoughts on the way down. Things seemed so slow.

As I hung there, I guess I was in shock. I didn't feel bad and I remember contemplating finishing the climb because I thought that would make a good story. Agnes lowered me and I felt surprisingly good. My wrist was a little banged up and my right leg was a sore from the rope wrapping around it tightly before my leg wrenched itself free. My left ankle hurt, having hit the ledge as I passed. But I didn't hit my head or torso on anything, which was very lucky. I was dissapointed that nobody was taking pictures or video. I mentioned it and told someone to get a few. And some of the climb. My hands shook as I tried to untie the knot. I don't remember if I got it or had Agnes do it. As I checked out my ankle I realize it was incredibly sore to touch. I wondered if it would swell. I had an instant ice pack in my first aid kit, but also recalled reading that, if an ankle was injured and proned to swelling, keep it in the hiking boot to contain the swelling - it may be hard to get the boot on later if it does swell. It didn't seem to be swelling, so I went with ice. Khanh and Agnes cleaned me up and bandaged me before Khanh finished and cleaned the climb.

My ankle held my weight fine, it was just sore to touch. That was lucky, I can't imagine Khanh and Agnes hauling me out of there, let alone me and all of the gear. The hike out was a painful at times. Depending on the terrain my boot sometimes pressed on my ankle more than others. Khanh had 800 mg Motrin back at the car. I guess they were left over painkillers from a dental procedure so she gave me one. At least we had a full day of climbing, it was about 7:30 PM when we left.

To replenish first aid supplies and pick up a few other necessities, we headed to the Friday night hot spot, WalMart. Good lord that place is busy. The parking lot was packed and there seemed to be some events going on. I waited in the car while Khanh and Agnes shopped. There were plenty of people to watch, including 4 women - one of which was illegally parked - socializing. They sometimes talked to each other. Sometimes to others on cellphones. Shortly before Agnes and Khanh returned they said their goodbyes and jumped in their respective vehicles in pairs. They promptly started their cars and backed into each other, damaging bumpers and shattering tail lights. They cleared enough way for us to pass on our way out.

Carrie and Nicole were arriving that night but were not at the site when we returned. They had apparently been there hours earlier and gave up waiting on our return for dinner. We talked about the climbing and falling. Nicole, a pediatric physician, and Carrie, an EMT, seemed to think my ankle was alright so I was happy. I wouldn't be pushing it though so my climbing was done for the trip.

Saturday

While everyone else was heading to the Tattoo Wall and later the Endless Wall, I drove out to the New River Gorge visitor center. I checked out their exhibits on the coal mining history of the area, the single span arch bridge construction, and the revitalization of the collapsed mining area by outdoor activity such as climbing, rafting, hiking, and kayaking. I checked out the bridge from the upper overlook but wasn't going to kill myself on the long staiway to the lower deck. I played it safe and hung out with the senior citizens.

After perusing the gift shop I asked the woman what there was to do around these parts for the less mobile. Where do people go to spend an afternoon?

"What?" she asked, "you mean like the WalMart?"

My guidebook said there were three movie theaters in Beckley so I headed south on route 19. The first one had terrible movies. The second one had closed. I couldn't find the third it mentioned, but eventually came across a new looking plaza with a newly built theater. They were showing Taladega Nights soon and I decided to spend a few dollars and hours there. I was starving and hadn't found any place to eat on the way down, but there was some fast food place at the other end of the lot. I'd already purchased my ticket and couldn't waste too much time. It would have been silly to drive across the lot so I hobbled my way over. The place was under construction. They fooled us with a WalMart last trip, apparently they get the facade completed and lit up first in West Virginia, then go about working on the insides. Fine, there was a Taco Bell a little ways up the road. I hobbled there and found it in the same state. Damn! I was starved and wouldn't last the movie. The last resort was a WalMart up the hill (they are everywhere!). I took the car there, made my way directly to the McDonald's in back to pick up a Quarter Pounder or Big Mac which I polished off on the walk back to the front of the store (I felt so American), navigated the chaotic parking lot, and made it to the movie just in time.

The movie was OK. Not as funny as Old School or Anchor Man, but I enjoyed it. I needed more food and found a Long John Silver's. I had wanted something less greasy, but the nostalgia won out. I had worked at LJS very briefly in highschool and hadn't eaten at one in ages. The place smelled and looked like the one I knew. It probably smelled and looked like every LJS had since the 70s. I had chicken, fish, hush puppies, and fries that had all ripened together in the same big fryer. I ate it all, even the extra fried batter crumbs they decorate the bottom with. If I am there, I am going all out.

The rest of the afternoon was spent wandering my way back up route 19. I stopped at a skate park to watch the kids play. Mostly they sat around talking, probably about the cool tricks they could do. There was a really young boy actually trying tricks but he was falling a lot. It looked painful, it is amazing how resilient kids are. It will be hard to not over-protect when I am a parent, even though I did so many things that should have seriously hurt or killed me.

For a while I followed signs for Mt Hope. I'd hoped for a nice view, but never found a mountain. The road dead ended in a ramshackle town and left me no other road signs.

I wanted to try the old bridge across the river so I followed route 82 from the visitor center. I stopped along the way to look at some of the climbing areas and take pictures. The road was really narrow and windy at times. Plenty of signs warned that no large vehicles were allowed. I guess busses for the rafting companies aren't considered large because I saw some zipping along the road. I walked the bridge and watched rafters, kayakers, swimmers, and spiders. The swimmers were hanging out on a large boulder and taking turns jumping in. There were train tracks near the bridge, and a train came along as I was about to pull out. I pulled back in to get some pictures.

The sky darkened as I drove back up out of the gorge. I called Agnes's phone to warn of the incoming rain shortly before it hit where I was. It hit them while they were on 100 foot climbs at the Endless Wall. They had an adventure getting out but everyone was uninjured. Nicole dropped her belay device and Agnes ended up losing a sling and locking biner that Khanh couldn't open as she re-climbed The Upheaval(?) in the rain to rescue as much of Agnes's gear as she could.

Wet and not in the mood to cook at camp, we went to Pies & Pints for dinner. We ran into a number of people from the rock gym there on a gym organized trip.

Sunday

It continued raining and gear was wet from the night before so the climbing outlook wasn't good for Sunday. I was alright killing time again on my own but we all went to breakfast at the Western Pancake House. Agnes loves pancakes and had wanted to go there since she saw it last trip. The food was OK. Mine tasted alright but I think others had issues with getting what they ordered and the taste of it when it finally arrived. Agnes, Khanh, and I decided to head home early, with a quick tour through the old route across the river. Nicole and Carrie checked out Summersville Lake but didn't climb. Nicole did jump off the cliff into Pirate's Cove. She said it was a little painful but at least I am sure it is deep enough for me not to kill myself if we go deep water soloing there next year.